![]() If it is not, turn the engine off and proceed to the next step to adjust your timing. If the pointer is pointing at the correct mark, you do not need to adjust your timing. Because of this, the timing marks will appear to be standing still. Aim the timing light at the timing marksĪim the timing light at the timing marks, and press the button on the light. Then, on the side of the distributor, disconnect the rubber hose from the vacuum advance and put a piece of duct tape on the end of the hose to seal it off. ![]() If you want, you can use some chalk to mark the timing marks to make them more visible. Now, your timing marks will have a line labeled "0" with marks above and below it, and depending on which way the wheel rotates, you will see the lines before the "0" (BTDC), or after the "0" (ATDC). There is also an "ATDC." "Before Top Dead Center" and "After Top Dead Center" - top dead center is the point where the piston reaches the highest point in the cylinder and that is when the compression is the greatest. As you can see, it also says something about "BTDC" for this Ford. All this means is that you want to line up the pointer on the timing light with the 6° timing mark when the engine is idling in gear at 550 rpm. For example, a 1969 Ford 429, it's 6 Degrees BTDC 550 rpm in drive gear - with automatic trans. Your auto's spec or emissions placard sheet should tell you what your timing degree should be. Look to the auto's spec or emissions placard sheet Rotate the pulley, if necessary, so that you can see the mark. ![]() Locate the timing marks near the lower crankshaft pulley, and the mark on the pulley itself. Clamp the largest clipĬlamp the largest clip (the one with the thickest insulation) around the No. Clamp the black clipĬlamp the black clip to the negative terminal of your car battery. People on here have said to use small shims, or a glue product, to tighten up the connection, if needed.Clamp the red clip on the timing light to the positive terminal of your car battery. The keyway can wear there, and that makes the governor work slower than it should. Look closely when putting the gear in and see that the oil seal lip doesn't turn backwards, it won't seal if it does.Ĭheck for wear of the shaft back and forth where the key number 6 is in the parts pic, hold the one piece, and turn the other piece. The magneto drive slot should be turned like in the pic I posted. Remember the gear turns some as you put it in again. I don't know if you want to replace the seal or not.Īlign the timing marks when putting the governor in again. It looks like in your pic the oil seal is not leaking, unless you cleaned it. Look at the surface the oil seal runs on, if it is rusty, dirty, or rough, clean it, and sand it with some fine sandpaper, and smooth it. Play there can make the governor work bad. The 2 pins that hold the weights on can get worn, and the holes can get worn, work them around and see that there is no play from wear. You might want to take the governor to a clean bench and open it and see if everything looks good, and clean it if needed. The insides of the governor can pull out of the case, keep them in the case if you can so the bearing doesn't fall off. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the governor on the engine. Then the shaft assembly will pull out of the governor. You need to remove the governor to do that.īelow is a page from the Baler parts manual, showing the governor and connections.įirst you need to remove the throttle rod from the top of the governor, then the pin number 3 in the parts pic, and the 2 bolts that hold number 5 onto the engine. You need to change the mesh of the governor gear, with the idler gear. TM Tractor at the bottom of the page has a new governor gear oil seal. If you have to remove the governor to change the gear teeth position, if the oil seal at the drive leaks, you could replace it while you have the governor off. The mark on the idler gear is on the side of the gear facing the rear, you see it looking in from the rear, like the 1st pic is, but after removing the governor. The 3rd pic shows timing mark on the idler gear, it drives the governor gear. The 2nd pic shows the timing mark on the governor gear, it is at the left in the pic. They should be aligned when the engine is at number 1 cylinder TDC. Sometimes people have the engine apart, or the governor off, and don't align the gear teeth right. The drive is made on the governor drive gear. If the drive is turned to another position, you probably won't be able to time the magneto correctly. The 1st pic below shows how the magneto drive should be turned when the engine is at number 1 cylinder TDC. Part of this info is the same as Jim posted above. If you can't get the timing to adjust correctly, it could have this problem below. Below is a page from the Baler engine owner's manual, telling how to time the magneto to the engine.
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